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{ Monthly Archives } April 2002

To the islands

Tuesday, April 30, 2002 16:24 Weather: Hot & sunny. Location: Highspeed 4 ferry from Piraeus to Paros. By common agreement after a conversation with other travellers, Pascale and I both decided to skip Athens and head straight to the Greek islands from Nafplion. I’ve got 6 days scheduled: 2 each for Paros, Naxos and Samos, […]

Epidaurus

Monday, April 29, 2002 12:33 Weather: Warm & sunny. Location: The theatre of Epidaurus. With a spectacular backdrop of a forested valley, imposing hills, and the pale blue sky, a seat at the top of the 15,000 capacity amphitheatre (cut into the hillside) provides many advantages. Not the least of these is the chance to […]

Nafplion

Sunday, April 28, 2002 12:32 Weather: Sunny, some light scattered cloud and haze. Location: Internet cafe in Nafplion. We got to Nafplion yesterday at about 3:35. Pascale and I walked together into town. She’s travelling with the Greece Lonely Planet, which has rather more detail than my own LP, which covers all of the Mediterranean: […]

As the trains go by

15:05 Location: Myloi (Mili), 10 km from Argos. A collection of rusting steam engines sit on a side track in the fragmented light of the sun through the trees. They have probably been there for 20 years, certainly 10–grass grows on some–but they wait patiently as our more modern train moves by, like cows put […]

Pascale

12:55 The train is winding its way through the hills, crossing small bridges and passing through little tunnels. It’s a modern two-car commuter train, in style at least, though we’re actually going quite some distance, inland, and then northeast towards Argos and Athens. The bright green of the olive trees and darker green of the […]

Back in Kalamata

Saturday, April 26, 2002 09:32 Weather: Sunny & clear. Location: Cafe Athanasiou in Kalamata (again). A beautiful morning. I packed up and left Lela’s dhomatia, passing the old lady herself on the way to the bus stop. She wished me bon voyage. The bus came on time at 8am and hauled me back to Kalamata. […]

Kardamyli

Friday, April 26, 2002 16:52 Weather: Partly cloudy, stormy in the upper mountains. Location: Internet cafe in Kardamyli. Oh my aching feet. Spent a lot of time hiking today, up the mountain above Kardamyli and down the Tagetos Gorge. More details when I’ve caught up to that point from yesterday. Ok, I had no trouble […]

Kalamata

Thursday, April 25, 2002 9:35 Weather: Sunny. Location: Cafe Athansiou–“flavor of sweet history”–Kalamata. I got up early and caught the 7am bus back to Kalamata. I’m headed for Kardamyli, 37 km south of here, but the two buses per day leave at 5:30am (gah!) and 13:10. Since my bus got here half an hour ago […]

Damn tourists

Wednesday, April 24, 2002 18:24 Weather: Partly cloudy Location: “Pizzeria” in Finikoundas A very relaxing day, partly marred by a slight hangover from last night. Very pleasant nonetheless! Turns out I was wrong about being the only foreigner in town, of course. At a waterfront bar I sat next to a group of about 10 […]

Finikoundas

Tuesday, April 23, 2002 16:38 Weather: Sunny, high scattered cloud, 21c. Location: Bench by the Finikoundas beach Well, I got very skeptical about Rick Steves when every other tourist in Cinque Terre seemed to be carrying his Italy guide, but he’s certainly come up aces with Finikoundas. ‘Course it helps that I’ve somehow seriously beaten […]