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Thursday, July 4, 2002

Location: easyInternetCafe, Edinburgh

Weather: Solid cloud cover, occasional showers.

A tiring but fun day walking around Edinburgh. This morning after a typically heavy Scottish breakfast we assembled in the lobby and made our way up to the castle for a tour. We scattered a bit on the way, stopping to distribute fliers for our concert tomorrow on the way, and didn’t make our way into the castle until 11. Once in, we picked up audio tours, included in our group entry. But I and several others had been to the castle before, so after an hour or so we gave up on it and headed back to the Royal Mile.

There, Susan, Craig and I had an excellent pub lunch in a charming little pub just off the Mile before I met up with Anne to walk out to the Museum of Modern Art and the Dean Gallery, which neither of us had seen on our previous trips to the city. Both museums were free, but neither was particularly large so we were able to see everything at both in the space of a couple of hours. Of the two, we both enjoyed the Dean Gallery’s collection the most, which had a collection of Dadaist paintings and a visiting show of Scottish paintings on loan from the National Gallery of Scotland, which is currently under renovation.

We walked back downtown, stopping at an extremely excellent Waterstones bookstore where I somehow managed to buy four books. Since I haven’t put a serious dent in the only book I brought with me from Canada yet, I can’t see how I can possibly read four more before heading back, so this seems to have been an error, especially since I still have £15 in W.H. Smith gift certificates in my wallet. Doh!

Tonight we’re meeting Susan and Craig again for dinner at a french restaurant, but haven’t got any plans beyond that. I’m feeling like I should get some more sleep…

Wednesday, July 3, 2002

Location: easyInternetCafe, Edinburgh

Weather: Mostly cloudy, scattered rain showers

I’m going to have to make my posts shorter… Not enough time to make it to internet cafes as frequently as I did on the Mediterranean trip. However, I’m pleased to have found this place, which has sold me unlimited time for the next week for what now seems a very reasonable £5 (after the exhorbitant £1 per 12 minutes in Oban!).

Monday night a group of eight of us headed to the Waterfront Restaurant in Oban where we had an excellent seafood dinner. It cost a lot, but hell, we’re on holiday.

Yesterday we got on an early ferry over to the Isle of Mull, where we boarded our bus for a scenic trek across the island to the far side. On the way, the weather gradually improved and when we got to the ferry crossing at Fiannphort the sun was out. We boarded a small ferry for a very small trip across the water to Iona, a lovely little island with a single village, and a very famous Abbey. There we attended a short ecumenical service for peace and then sang a concert, which went quite well. It was a lovely setting. Afterwards we had a few group photos and then wandered the island for a while before retracing our steps back to Oban.

Back in Oban I went with a group of 9 others to India Palace, a restaurant with decent indian food and abysmal service. We enjoyed the food, and didn’t enjoy the techno soundtrack that they refused to change.

This morning we got up early and after breakfast loaded up for the trip to Edinburgh. On the way we stopped at the Famous Grouse distillery in Crieff for a tour that was somewhat educational but involved forced exposure to rather a lot of expensive advertising. Their cafeteria fed us a very good lunch — I had haggis, tatties and neeps — and we continued on to Edinburgh. After checking in at our (last!) hotel, we slowly got ourselves organized and headed out to check out the town. After stopping at the tourist information centre, we rambled aimlessly over to St. Mary’s church where we met Bruce and Steph and admired the stained glass and classic proportions of the building. We walked back into the middle of town and found a place called Mussel Inn (yuk yuk) where we had, surprise, 1 kilo buckets of mussels and surprisingly good coffee.

Tomorrow is Edinburgh Tourism Day. Our tour package includes access to the castle, so I think we’re all going to troop up there in the morning, though I’ve already seen it and so has Anne so we may duck out quickly and head to some art galleries. Friday we have a noon hour concert in St. Giles Cathedral on the Royal Mile, and our final group dinner is that evening before most of the rest of the choir heads back to Canada.

I have to say that we’ve all been very pleasantly surprised by the food here. The hotel food has, predictably, been heavily into starch and grease, but in general there have been a lot more salads and vegetables than any of us were expecting. It would appear that Scotland’s palate has become more sophisticated (and much healthier) in the last few years.

Monday, July 1, 2002

Location: Hotel Alexandra, Oban

Weather: Rain for most of the day, now starting to clear.

Oban is a lovely little seaside town, built along a long stretch of windey coast up against steep hills. We arrived in the middle of the afternoon yesterday and had a quick rehearsal in St. Columba’s Cathedral, whose acoustics quickly seduced us. It seemed almost effortless to sing there, and the building rang with harmonics so tuning was easy as well.

After the rehearsal we checked into the hotel, next door to the cathedral, and had some down time. Katherine Hill graciously agreed to give up her single room and swap places with Jay, so she and I moved our bags into one of the hotel’s outside “apartments”, essentially motel rooms out the back, but large and well-equipped. After a brief unpack I put on my raincoat and headed into town through a light drizzle. Most everything was closed, but I picked up a bag of gummy bears and a small packet of turkish delight in a candy shop.

Back at the hotel we assembled at 6:30 for a group dinner, which was adequate, and then trooped back to the cathedral in our concert dress. The church was quite cold, and several in the choir were not suitably prepared, but I had a black sweater over my shirt and was fine. We had a decent and appreciative crowd, and we all enjoyed the concert a great deal. Several group photos were taken afterwards, but as I didn’t have my camera there I’ll have to get a copy from someone else.

After the concert, Katherin retired early but I stayed up for a while to drink scotch and play Scrabble in the lounge with Anne, Susan and Phyllis, Jill’s mother. Susan won again, despite her continued protestations about lack of skill. Once again I came last, which was disappointing but which I put down to lack of sleep.

Speaking of which, I had no trouble at all sleeping last night. Katherine didn’t make a noise, and other than some early light through the curtains at 5am, there wasn’t any form of distraction and with my face mask (Air Canada issue) I was able to sleep through until the alarm went off, a major relief.

Today was our free day. The original plan had been to climb Ben Nevis, but we aren’t especially close to it and with the inclement weather had some fears that it might actually be dangerous, so Stephanie and I made plans to go to the island of Ferrera, opposite Oban, with Susan, Craig, Anne and Katherine.

We hiked through the town, over the railroad tracks at a bridge, and along the coastal road south towards the Ferrera ferry, in a light rain. After some time and two miles we came to the ferry, announced on a placard. As it instructed, we flipped the sign over to the reverse side, painted black, which in due course brought the ferry (a speedboat) over from the island to pick us up.

On the island we had a lovely but wet walk south to a tea shop, another two miles from the ferry, where we rested and warmed up with soup, fresh bread, scones and tea. After a short detour past a little castle (sadly scaffolded for renovations — it would have been a fabulous photo op otherwise) and some highland cattle, we continued on the road past the tea shop, which looped around most of the island before cutting back across to the ferry. There was significantly more mud, though generally less rain. We passed some memorable sights: a particularly muddy section where Susan discovered her shoes had no treads (by slipping into the mud); a wonderful cottage above a little bay, beside a circle of trees around a little meadow; a hilly section that Craid and I stormed up, then were passed by Stephanie, running; and a farm with ponies standing across the trail who came up to say hello, rubbing their noses up against us and looking for food.

Back on the mainland, Steph and I headed up a path leading to a highland trail back to Oban, while the others opted to continue back along the road we’d come on in the morning. At first, their choice seemed the wiser as we had to cross a very swampy field, but then our path got drier and eventually became a lovely laneway that shortcutted our trip so that we arrived back in town at the same time as the others.

The first priority was hitting the pool and the steam room. That done, we’re now off for a nice seafood dinner.

Sunday, June 30, 2002

Location: Wellington Church, Glasgow

Weather: Grey and rainy

We’re about to start a church service in Glasgow, at a large downtown Presbyterian church whose general size and layout is similar to Trinity St. Paul’s on Bloor Street in Toronto. We’re sitting in the upper gallery to the right of the pulpit, so that the congregation is mostly below and to our left. There aren’t that many here yet, but we brought our own group of supporters to pad out the numbers — spouses and parents — so it looks respectable. Since the World Cup final match starts in a couple of minutes it’s amazing anyone is here at all!

We had a great day yesterday in Ayr, though I felt a bit groggy all day since I couldn’t sleep at all the night before. I’m rooming with Jay Lambie, who snores. Fortunately I didn’t have to operate any heavy machinery. In the morning we drove to Culzean Castle, which I had visited in 1997 but had forgotten about — a big Edwardian pile, quite beautiful and luxuriously appointed. After our tour of the main building we had a quick lunch at a small cafe on the grounds.

[Sing Joyfully, Hymn “Praise to the Lord”]

After lunch, Susan, Craig, Anne, Mary and I walked around the castle and made our way down past a battery of old naval cannons to the rocky shoreline below the castle. We picked our way over cockle-encrusted rocks, strewn with seaweed, to a cave under the castle proper. The mouth of the cave was sealed with an ancient fortification that seemingly connected up to the castle above — the secret back door! Unfortunately it was closed off with a sturdy looking barred door, so we weren’t able to enter. Instead we turned back and made our way south, up a different staircase to the paths running through the castle grounds. We had a very pleasant stroll along the

[Hymn “All are Welcome”]

top of the cliffs, passing an old gunpowder storage shed, before turning back and heading to the coach again.

On the way back to Ayr we stopped for an hour at the Robbie Burns cottage, but I stayed in the bus to try and catch a quick nap.

Back in Ayr, we hit the pool again and then had a rehearsal

[Rise Up My Love]

in a room in the basement of the hotel. At 6:30 we headed to a wonderful pub in town, where I had a lamb burger with mint

[Hymn: “As Many Stones”]

sauce!

From there, Anne, Susan and I headed out on a hike. On Friday we’d seen a ruined fort on a cliff south of the beath. This was our goal. We walked along a paved pedestrian train and over a bridge, past a group of men operating a massive remote-controlled model warship with a buzzing engine.

At the top of the hill we cut through a farmer’s field (barley) and through a gap in the fence to the fort. From there, we headed back to the hotel via the beach. With the end of the day the sun was breaking through the clouds and shining off the sea over the distant islands.

Back at the hotel, we had a game of Scrabble before bed. Susan got a seven letter word (“bruising”) and cleaned up. I did extremely badly, and ended the game with 23 points left in my rack, including the X and the Z.

Despite the exercise and my fatigue, I once again had problems getting to sleep. I did get a few hours in the end, but also had a lot of time to listen to Jay rumble.

[Gloria Deo Per Immensa Saecula]

Friday, June 28, 2002

Location: Ramada Hotel, Ayr

Weather: Broken cloud, cool and humid, windy

A very long two days of travel. Yesterday I spent the day finishing off the countless pre-trip tasks and packing the bags. Since I have few days were I’ll be without transport this trip, I’m going back to using the big old Samsonite suitcase instead of the travel pack I took to the Med in March. This seems very excessive, but then I have to travel with two sets of concert dress.

The trip over was uneventful. Mary Gilmeister and I split a cab to the airport, where we took advantage of my Aeroplan status to check in at the Executive desk and wait in the Maple Leaf lounge. This got me in trouble with our tour guide, Michael Tansley, when we showed up (eventually) at the gate: he’d been worried we would miss the flight.

On the flight over I tried to zone out quickly. I put my blindfold on right away and tried to get some sleep. No luck, of course. I sat, eyes closed, all night.

This morning we got picked up by a luxury coach at Glasgow airport. We had a delay, as Erika’s luggage got lost in transit. It hasn’t shown up yet, and we’re still hoping it arrives tomorrow.

The first stop was Glasgow Cathedral, known as St. Mungo’s by the locals for the patron saint of Glasgow whose remains are apparently buried under the church. I’d actually seen the cathedral the last time I was in Scotland, but this time we had an aged tour local tour guide to give us some of the stories of St. Mungo. We sang “If Ye Love Me” in the quire, but I for one didn’t especially note the acoustic, being rather dazed.

After that, we headed downtown for lunch. Anne, Karen, Trish and I walked down to the Granery, a restaurant by the river, where we had a delicious (though not cheap) lunch, including very nice salads.

We split up and spent a little time walking around the downtown shops before picking up the bus again and driving to Ayr, a pleasant seaside town. There, we checked into the hotel and through about what to do before dinner. Eventually Craig, Susan and I headed down to the hotel’s pool for a refreshing swim and a soak in the steam room.

After a decent group meal in the hotel restaurant, we went for a nice walk down to the coast and along the beach. The sun peeked through the clouds, as it slowly sank to a late night sunset. The wind was cold and I was very glad to have my new Goretex jacket.

Oops. One big piece of news I forgot to report… For those who know Kelly Baxter Golding, you’ll be pleased to hear that she and Paul are expecting a child in January. Get in touch and pass on your best wishes!

Sorry, no updates for a while. Not much to report. I’ve been in heavy rehearsal mode for Consort Caritatis’ performances in Kitchener (tonight) and Toronto (Saturday), which has eaten up a lot of evenings. Other than that, with the weather poor until this week (it’s now gorgeous) I spent a lot of time indoors on the computer.

Only a week to go before I head out again: Scotland, England, Russia, Estonia, Finland. I got my Russian visa in the mail today. Now I can believe I’m going… After hearing horror stories from others in the choir who had their applications returned for apparently flimsy reasons I’m very pleased they got mine back to me without hassles. Not cheap, though: for three business day processing I had to pay $180!

Wow, check out this sterling entry that appeared on my guest book today. I’ve attracted my first crackpot! Whoohoo!

I saw Star Wars, and I’m glad my expectations were low: it exceeded them, and I enjoyed the movie, but it wasn’t really that great and if you’re not a Star Wars fan, I would suggest you check out Spider-Man instead. I went to see that on Saturday with Andy & Heather Pierce (up from NY), and Peters Hansen & Dobos, and it rocked.

I got the photos from my Europe trip developed onto CD, and have now posted them onto the site. Check it out!

I’m slowly gearing up mentally for the effort necessary to get my Estonian and Russian visas sorted out for my choir trip in July. The process seems so last milennium… Time for these guys to lighten up a bit, I feel.

A couple of bits of news:

First (and best!) I’ve got Hoover back! Mum & Dad dropped her off yesterday, and she immediately did a chameleon job that was so impressive we were unable to find her in the apartment in approx. 45 minutes of searching, and feared she’d snuck her way outside somehow. When I got home from choir she came downstairs to greet me, but I still have no idea where her hiding spot was. I swear we checked everywhere. Clever kitty. She’s apparently happy to see me: quick to forgive a four-month absence, she’s accepting petting and other non-threatening affection in her normal neurotic way.

Second, I’ve updated the trip itinerary and map. Click here to see them, and track where I’ve been for the last two months!

Third, Rogers finally replaced my cell phone battery and the phone is working again! Email me for the number if you’d like it.

Finally, I’m going to see the new Star Wars movie this afternoon! My expectations are fairly low, but I’ll let you know what I thought when I get back.